February 2008 Archives

I’ve been on Maui for the last 10 days and it has been going mental. The winter finally made the turn and the waves have been sick every day. I haven’t been able to stay awake past 9:30 for days. It feels good to finally be beat from surfing. Also, I've got my annual Menehune Mayhem contest coming up for the groms, so we've got that to look forward to. It's always a good time and the kids are stoked. More later.

We are coming towards the end of a 12-day, non-stop Pipeline free surfing dream.  It's been fun with some serious moments at The Pipeline. A few of my friends got hurt. Mark Healey broke his left knee cap and fractured his right heel. The day after Jason Shibata and Fred Patachia fell victim to Pipe's hungry, no-mercy reef.  All three incidents resulted with the boys needing help up the beach and on the sidelines to heal up. I've had a few fun waves in the process. I've been riding a 7'8 quad. We had a 18ft swell on Thurs and I towed Phantoms with Troy Alotis my Hawaii tow partner and mentor.  Throughout the day Sean Davey and Eric Ippel hovered above us in a white chopper capturing Jamie O'Brien and I bagging a few fun ones.There's more swell on the way on Tuesday, but the boogie boarders have their event running this coming week. Second options may find me paddling Phantoms or Rock Piles. The winter has definently turned for the better. Lets hope the swells keep the momentum.

Looks like the Pacific is going to wake up and come play with us in Hawaii on Thursday and a few more sizable swells lining up after that. I've been training with Russian kettle bells, running the beach, and stand-up surfing. I'll be going over to Sydney, Australia, on Feb 11 for the ASL Oakley Big Wave Awards. I'm a finalist in the contest. My wave is from Cow Bomby on Sept 1 is in the running. Mark Visser towed me into. Should be a fun night. 

Is it ever going to get good in Hawaii? What happened? What did we do wrong? Two feet in 72 hours, are you kidding me? Well, at least it's flat.

I've just been cruising at home, surfing Pipe and Backdoor lately. I was pretty stoked to win the Backdoor Shoot-Out. The waves were good and all the boys were going off, a lot different than the Pipe Master's this year. When it's flat I've been doing a lot of diving lately, it's been fun. I've found some pretty good shells down there. It's been a tough winter, but it's definitely getting better. It's all about late season.

Been golfing and fishing a lot lately, and just kind of cruising on Kauai. The waves have been good here this winter. The whole North Shore's been crap, but we've had a couple of days over here. I don't know, other than that, I guess we got a few days at Pipe during the Backdoor Shoot-Out. Heading for Australia soon, back on the road. 

I'll be honest mate, I am busier than a blue assed fly on a shit pile. I don't even have time to scratch my bum. The wedding's coming quick, the season comes right after that. But I'm not complaining, it's been a great off season.

It's been an impressive winter so far...just not in Hawaii. Well, no, I take that back, the last few weeks have been good. It was weird though, every big swell that came seemed to hit California. I've done a lot more cold water surfing lately, that's for sure. But we'll get some days, maybe late season, but something will show up...and I'll let you know when it does.

Yeah, hello. It's been cold and windy here in San Clemente, I'd love to be in Australia right now. Anyway, I've been working with Clay Marzo and Dion Agius on a new surfboard label...Super Surfboards. The boards are coming out pretty good, I've got my own model with some rad, old '80s graphics. 

Just got back from Bali after shooting with Taylor Steele, I'll probably be going back in a little bit. Other than that I've just been doing the junior events down here in Oz. The Quik Pro's coming up on the Gold Coast and I'm heading to that, but I think I've got Mick in my first heat.

First, congrats to Mick on a hell of a year. In the last couple of months I've just been getting ready for the 2008 campaign. The boards are looking good, I'm amped, can't wait.