February 2009 Archives

Went down to Tahiti and got some of the best barrels at Teahupoo. Early season swell, four-to six-foot and sheet glass. Pops calls Chopes a barrel machine, just take off, pull in and get spit out. Six-footers are kind of heavy, but got a couple. Home now and expecting rain in San Clemente.

Tour's starting soon. Back from the injury, body and boards are ready. Spent some time in California, feeling pretty prepared for the Gold Coast and another year on tour. See you when the tour starts.

North Shore's been fun lately, a few quality sessions at Pipe. Kind of a hit and miss winter, but definitely some good days. Entered a bodyboard contest for the heck of it. Should be interesting. Finally away from Hawaii for a few days and on a surf trip, all's good. So far survived another winter.

Since Hawaii, been back in Australia, surfed a few comps. Feeling better after the injury. Now off on a stealth mission with Red Bull crew. You'll find out where soon enough.

Late season's here in Hawaii and we've had some good days at Pipe. The Pipe trials was last week, but I didn't make it. Anyway, just checking in. Still here in Hawaii, can't wait for more swell.