Hawaii's Finally Turned On

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We are coming towards the end of a 12-day, non-stop Pipeline free surfing dream.  It's been fun with some serious moments at The Pipeline. A few of my friends got hurt. Mark Healey broke his left knee cap and fractured his right heel. The day after Jason Shibata and Fred Patachia fell victim to Pipe's hungry, no-mercy reef.  All three incidents resulted with the boys needing help up the beach and on the sidelines to heal up. I've had a few fun waves in the process. I've been riding a 7'8 quad. We had a 18ft swell on Thurs and I towed Phantoms with Troy Alotis my Hawaii tow partner and mentor.  Throughout the day Sean Davey and Eric Ippel hovered above us in a white chopper capturing Jamie O'Brien and I bagging a few fun ones.There's more swell on the way on Tuesday, but the boogie boarders have their event running this coming week. Second options may find me paddling Phantoms or Rock Piles. The winter has definently turned for the better. Lets hope the swells keep the momentum.

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