Hawaii's Finally Turned On
We are coming towards the end of a 12-day, non-stop Pipeline free
surfing dream. It's been fun with some serious moments at The Pipeline.
A few of my friends got hurt. Mark Healey broke his left knee cap and
fractured his right heel. The day after Jason Shibata and Fred Patachia
fell victim to Pipe's hungry, no-mercy reef. All three incidents
resulted with the boys needing help up the beach and on the sidelines to heal up. I've had a few fun waves in the process. I've been riding a 7'8 quad. We
had a 18ft swell on Thurs and I towed Phantoms with Troy Alotis my Hawaii tow
partner and mentor. Throughout the day Sean Davey and Eric Ippel hovered
above us in a white chopper capturing Jamie O'Brien and I bagging a few
fun ones.There's more swell on the way on Tuesday, but the boogie
boarders have their event running this coming week. Second options may
find me paddling Phantoms or Rock Piles. The winter has definently
turned for the better. Lets hope the swells keep the momentum.
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